Riesling in South Africa

The fortunes of Riesling, the grape of nobility and finesse, are going from strength to strength in its “home country” of Germany, but there are signs it may be losing its way a little in South Africa, where its identity is becoming unfocused despite some very strong support from classic winemakers.

Riesling’s aromatic subtlety, racy acidity and gracious ageing potential, ought to make it a stand-out varietal, but wine makers in South Africa are reducing their cultivation of the grape, even though the grape is easily vinified into a number of styles and the wine has the appeal of being an unusual varietal locally. The decline in the grape is doubly ironic, since German Rieslings are gaining the kind of renown normally associated with classic French styles.  Its also ironic since Riesling has a strong, core following among some of the most accomplished wine makers in South Africa, and has a devoted following among a faithful group of local wine drinkers.  Many wine makers consider Riesling to be a great alternative to Sauvignon Blanc, unwooded Chardonnay or even Pinot Grigio providing something a bit unconventional for wine drinkers who have become slightly jaded with the “regular” tastes and varietals.  Some of the makers of the “gentil aromatique” are De Wetshof, Klein Constantia, Nederburg, Ross Gower, Thelema and Fairview who make dry Rhine or Weisser Riesling locally. The makers of off-dry, semi sweet or sweet Riesling include Rietvallei, Woolworths (from Villiera), Villiera, Paul Cluver, Jordan, Buitenverwachting, Deetlefs, Hartenberg. Some Rhine/Weisser Riesling producers change their style from vintage to vintage. The key taste of Riesling is described as “aromatic”, and it’s that spicy freshness combined with satisfying fruit which varies from limy to dried apricots that makes the grape so popular among sophisticated wine makers and drinkers.  It’s increasingly becoming clear that the varietal can last for much longer than was previously thought. Wine authority Jancis Robinson declared a few months ago that “Good German Riesling should and can be kept as long as red Bordeaux”. Last year at the world’s largest trade fair for Riesling wines in Germany, the VDP Weinboerse, 270 Grosse and Erste Gewaechse from the 2009 Riesling vintage were presented. Excellent Riesling vintages of this decade are 2007, 2008 and 2009. In South Africa it does not seem as though the grape presents the same potential, although this might be because it just is not planted as widely. It is also quickly dropping off the list of wines produced, and old vines being uprooted in favour of noble red varietals as well as familiar white varitials.  Click here for more information on “The future of Riesling in SA and what we can learn from the recent improvements in Germany (example: the Rheingau)”. Fuente: wine.co.za